Plentiful water (I never carried more than 16 oz.). The long circuitous way, but entirely on trails, from this trailhead goes over Piute Pass (11,423 ft.) descends through Humphrey Basin along Piute Creek to the John Muir Trail (at 8,000 ft.). That was a big mistake. Is there some exception for Evolution Valley? It was breathtaking up there. The ferry is worth it if its running. The rest were lazy snoozers. I had a really good time and met several really nice people. It tasted cold and fresh. A boat-taxi across the lake is available from the trailhead in the summer. beautiful. slightly uphill or slightly downhill, varying. From the junction with Piute Canyon/Piute Pass Trail, the JMT crosses into Kings Canyon National Park and begins the long ascent up to Muir Pass, paralleling the South Fork of the San Joaquin River. 5 trip report day 12-16: Muir Trail Ranch to Onion Valley Trailhead. The Guthook PCT app on my phone showed most of the camping spots along the main trail, but it didnt show any of them on the trail I was about to take. Generally considered a challenging route, it takes an average of 12 h 41 min to complete. Very nice hike, lots of scenery. Muir Pass snow is melting fast and maybe only 1.5 miles worth heading northbound and maybe 2 over towards Sapphire Lake. On our way back down we hike about 13 miles and set up camp for the last night. On my way between JMT and Piute there were 5+ stream crossings that necessitated wading. Goode, Bishop Lake, Jigsaw Pass. Climbing glacier carved granite benches, the trail passes Loch Leven, Piute Lake and many smaller lakes and ponds on the way to the pass. I climbed upward for two miles without seeing a single decent campsite, either. It follows the south fork of the San Joaquin and Evolution Creek nearly all the way. Challenging but absolutely worth it, forever in my memories. Membership. Bugs werent that bad. I am now a retired academic, so I was able, in all three trips, to exploit my college timing to hike in early September before the start of classes. The next morning, we hiked past beautiful Wanda Lake and up to Muir Pass where we briefly went into the Muir Hut (built in 1930). Mendel, which is part of the Evolution range. Then I continued north. Peaks north of Bishop Pass, and south of Piute Pass form two basic groups, Bishop Group and Evolution Group. This is a popular trailhead for approaching the Palisades. Then I ate some dinner and took photos and videos of the waterfall that was just downstream from my tent. 1 decision & planning. The trail on the left leads to Lower Honeymoon Lake. Our total hiking miles over 5 days was 41.8 miles then we caught the ferry for the extra couple. I climbed down off my hilltop aerie and walked along the southern shore of Evolution Lake. Meadows and trees and waterfalls were on my menu. The next day we made it up to evolution valley. meadows, granite peaks, off-trail accessibility, water plentiful. Day two Continue on Piute Pass to reach the JMT (and enter the national park) at mile 17.4. Now that the best parts of the trek were over (quite possibly), I was beginning to yearn for home. I went down to the water and splashed some on my head. Hi, Jeff; Thank you for your compliment of my photo. After that, I was down on the floor of Evolution Valley. Warm days in the upper 70s and the nights werent too cool either, even up at sapphire lake. Roundtrip mileage to the McClure Meadow Ranger Station from the south end of Florence Lake is about 15.5 miles and 1500 feet of elevation gain. Just as I was pondering what to do, a couple came down the trail! Best seasons: Mid-summer to fall
The next morning, we hiked through the remainder of Evolution Valley to gorgeous Colby Meadow, up several switchbacks to Evolution Lake and eventually staying at Sapphire Lake. This wasnt a trivial decision. P. i. psammophilus is known from the Salinas Valley and may be a synonym of P. i. neglectus (Best 1993; Williams et al. Campsites: Good sites along Evolution Creek by Evolution Meadow, McClure Meadow and Colby Meadow. Didn't make it up to the lake, but SO HAPPY that we made it to the Hermit. When I walk through this area again, perhaps I will do the same so I can see it from another perspective. For a topographic map of the hike see my CalTopo Page, For LOTS more photos of the trek see my Flickr Page, Dawn alpenglow over Evolution Lake as I packed up all my gear for another big day of hiking, Dawn color in the clouds above Evolution Valley to the north, Waterfall on the creek that descends from Darwin Bench, after the JMT descends into Evolution Valley, Crossing the creek below the waterfall it was very wide with many small crossings, The Hermit (12328 feet elevation), standing alone and shining bright, at the upper end of Evolution Valley, View up Evolution Valley, over McClure and Colby Meadows with Evolution Creek on the right, and The Hermit, center, The McClure Meadow Ranger Station and the notices outside near the trail, View over McClure Meadow in the morning light, Still water on an curving stretch of Evolution Creek, down in the flat section of Evolution Valley, This is the lower ford of Evolution Creek, where the PCT-JMT crosses this could be dangerous in Spring, The first of several powerful waterfalls and cascades on Evolution Creek down at the lower end of Evolution Valley, One waterfall after another on this section of the creek, Wide-angle GoPro shot looking down into the worn granite where Evolution Creek tumbled downward, One last view of Evolution Creek as it churned down a granite chute on its way out of Evolution Valley, Mount Henry (12196 feet) peeking out between two glaciated granite domes above the South Fork San Joaquin River, The wooden bridge where the JMT-PCT first crosses the South Fork San Joaquin River, Aspen and pine forest at a much lower elevation it was HOT, The metal bridge where the PCT-JMT crosses the South Fork San Joaquin River, View from the metal bridge looking north (downstream), The South Fork San Joaquin River as I hiked north on the John Muir Trail in the sun, The river goes through a steep gorge down below a talus slide. Didnt know you needed a reservation to drive through Yosemite, so consider going through Sonora Pass (unless you go through after 4pm). Amazing. It was cloudy for much of the way, but it only rained briefly. By trying to further lighten our loads over and over again, we hit the trail far later than expected, so by necessity had to pitch our tents after only four miles at Saddlerock Lake (11,128 feet). Why cant I breathe? We slept near the shores of Evolution Lake. I plan to get back there this month with Located in California's beautiful eastern Sierra Nevada Mountains, Inyo National Forest offers challenging trails, high mountain peaks, and unparalleled views. I did a backpacking trip over the 4th of July weekend over 4 days, starting at Florence Lake, going up to Evolution Lake. It all worked out in the end, however. Trailhead to Piute Lake Distance from Trailhead: 7.0 miles (round trip) Then continue up the valley to McClure Meadow. Hike down 6.6 miles to LeConte Canyon, which is a very beautiful, deep canyon with lush meadows and forests. Did this a decade ago and want to do it again! The forest and meadows of Evolution Valley had been very beautiful, as had the waterfalls along the way. Beautiful alpine lakes, waterfalls, and my God the meadows. Started at North Lake Trailhead and ended at South Lake. Aahhh! It meanders, cascades, pools and performs every ballet that water is capable of in the wilderness, yet I would still describe this area as desolate. straightforward trail. ALLTRAILS and the AllTrails Mountain Design are registered trademarks of AllTrails, LLC in the United States as well as certain other jurisdictions. Camp at Wanda! When Leor Pantilat's FKT for the Evolution "loop" came up in my news feed, I skimmed it and moved on, having other things on my mind. But the point is we were beat! My girlfriends told me I started singing gospel at that point, but I really think they may be exaggerating. Plenty of camp sites a long the way. Required fields are marked *. Does this seem like a fair deal to you? Or bag flattopped Mt. Didnt posthole, it was sunny and we summited at 10:30am from a 5:30am start (slower pace), stayed for an hour at the hut and headed down towards Evolution Lake to camp. I wasnt enjoying this as much as I would have liked. There were several wet crossings during the first three or four miles. We got there between 4:30-5 on a week day and there wasn't anyone available -- so we hitched and got a ride pretty easily. I also crossed Evolution creek at the alternate, which was swampy but looked much easier than the main crossing. classic Sierra beauty from the very start. There was still quite a bit of snow on the surrounding mountains and still ice in the lake. In other words, I was probably dehydrated. History. Water was flowing on a lot of the trail down. Hwy 168 accesses both trailheads west out of Bishop and there are many signs so even the most directionally challenged can easily follow the breadcrumbs. While there are no 14,000 ft peaks in these groups the peak are high and majestic. kelly e. No matter how heavy my pack is I always leave room for some whiskey. Day three Descend 7.3 miles on the JMT into Evolution Valley, then add an easy 1.2 miles to camp by Evolution Lake. Theodore S. Solomons and E.C. Purchase tickets in the store. Muir Pass Bear canisters are required and can be rented at the ranger station for $5 per week. First, it was a suggestion, and then it was an item on my Someday List. We did the alternate Evolution creek crossing this time and it was easy, water just above my knees (Im 411). This loop begins and ends at the North Lake trailhead. Monday, they crossed 11,500-foot Piute Pass. There was a strong metal bridge just downstream, and it was fun to cross. They finished up their meal and continued onward, while I read my book and watched the river go by. It was a fine pace, but sometimes I just wanted the extra time to really settle into the vistas. Thanks to Covid regulations, the signs posted trailside asked people not to visit unless it was an emergency, One of the signs mentioned a Bold, Aggressive, Large Bear that had been raiding food at the Piute Creek area exactly where I planned to stay that night! The air seemed to be getting a bit cooler, so I packed up my stuff and headed out. Mostly True Stories of My Hiking Trips, a PhotoJournal. . Youll find other good campsites on this knoll. The trail condition is great, although it get pretty rocky around Muir Pass. This will bring you onto the PCT north of Evolution Valley, a distance of about 16 miles. The ferry was not running this early in the season. From there, you head back west and up up up to Evolution Valley and then Evolution Basin - finally topping out at the summit of Muir Pass. When we finished our descent and arrived at the ranger station in the deep forest of Le Conte Canyon we also reached the junction on which the trail merges with the Pacific Crest Trail(PCT)/ John Muir Trail. I had my food in a bear cannister, But getting partway up toward the pass seemed like a fine idea. for errors or for changes that may have occurred since publication. From there, the trail traverses Humphreys Basin and reaches the splendid section of the Pacific Crest Trail known as Evolution Valley. Starting at the North Lake TH, we will cross Piute Pass (11,423'). This was the most difficult day as we ascended over 3200 with 30+ & 40+ lb packs. So prepare rain And wind covering if comfort is a must. The mosquitoes were intense in certain areas. It had taken me almost twelve hours, although I have to admit that I took several very long breaks. Which didnt happen until I reached Piute Creek and the metal bridge that crossed it. My [growing] Collection of Top Utah Hiking Trails, Five ways to make enemies at a public campground, Seeking Powder Hounds: Heli-Skiing the Northwest. But the views from the trail made up for it. Evolution Valley was flower-filled, even in this drought year. Here the trail climbs 700 feet of switchbacks to
$4,995: August 6-11. At the top was Evolution Valleyas a wannabe biologist, I fell in love with the name. however, if you are an average backpacker like me, expect some brutal acents and decents. Get access to more than 30 brands, premium video, exclusive content, events, mapping, and more. . Sign up for Outside+ today. The trail skirts the northern shore of Loch Leven. Always confirm information with the service provider and check for any recent changes that
Crest Piute Pass, then drop down toward Summit Lake. She was seriously considering it. Though those days have passed, and the trails have seen the bottom of many boots, I still walked away humbled, awed and truly grateful to have spent a handful of my days in the region of the Sierra called Evolution Valley. It was gorgeous! The mosquitos were relentless though. We had heard that you could maybe get an employee of Parcher's Resort to give you a lift to the North Lake Trailhead -- they are located a mile down the road from the South Lake Trailhead. This is an excellent report on a great hiking trip. 2 trip report day 0-4: getting in & Yosemite National Park warm up. Bear canisters are not required, but food must be stored in a safe way, e.g. Not only that, but the trail was going to head even lower as I followed the river downstream. We parked 3mi down from the trailhead in the overnight parking and caught a ride in the construction workers truck bed (thank you!). This site had been used for years, and there were several flat spots. 1993 . I hung out by the creek for an hour and a half, until 3pm. Oh boy. For me, this was one of the most unforgettable moments. Me either, until we exited the forest at about 11,000 feet and monster granite views appeared. The next morning, we continued on the Piute Trail and crossed the bridge onto the John Muir Trail (JMT) where we were paralleling a fast-moving San Joaquin River located within the Kings Canyon National Park. Ive seen worse, bug-wise. it has all the beauty you can think of, in fact you will get a beauty intake overdoz lol. FIND YOUR WAY OUTSIDE is a trademark of AllTrails, LLC. Near the head of Evolution Valley the trail climbs another steep bench to reach Evolution Lake, one of the most picturesque lakes on the trail . Starting at Lake Sabrina we could do a proper loop with just two 2 mile stretches on the road. This was fortunate, because I dont think we could have walked any further even if you told us there was free cold beer around the next bend served by Matthew McConaughey. 3 trip report day 5-8: Lyell Canyon/Tuolumne Meadows to Red's Meadow Resort. My first suggestion is if you have seven days to make this trip, your body and spirit will thank you. By the time I was ready to hike I looked down at the tents below me on the shore of the lake and only one person had crawled out of their tent. Western States Climbers Emblem Peaks Showing Kimberly Berg's first ascent dates for climbed peaks (0 out of 129, or 0%) The ferry was not running yet. Bishop and Muir Pass are still very snowy. Just what I didnt need. They are past the Muir Trail Ranch. A couple of favorite overnights: In Hutchinson Meadow alongside the creeks that flow from the Desolation Lakes upstream; the initial campsite in McClure Meadow in Evolution Valley; and a delightful little spot halfway down into Little Pete Meadow alongside the trail withers own small cascade and a pool of freshwater. Ooops! Always confirm information with the service provider and check for any recent changes that may have been made. omg. No more High Sierra tundra for me today! Distance: 8.8 miles Time: 5-7 hours Difficulty: Strenuous Gain/Loss: +498'/-1,537 Dogs: No When to go: Late July-Early October It may be called a 'creek', but Piute Creek was raging! Over Piute pass has one patch of snow to cross and it was also a non-issue. The map showed that it eventually merged into the South Fork San Joaquin River somewhere out of sight of the trail. Perfect! We parked at Lake Sabrina, hiked up past the Tyee Lakes to South Lake and then completed the loop clockwise. The trail is quite rocky in most places so slower than you might expect given the elevation profile. Allow extra driving time to Florence Lake. the mouth of Evolution Valley. Then we stayed there 1 night then hiked up to evolution valley. The benefits of hiking, more than you can imagine! Some hike this route from the other direction, north to south. The trail to Piute Pass (11,423-ft.) ascends the lovely North Fork of Bishop Creek, passing photogenic Loch Leven and Piute Lakes along the way. It was quite dramatic. Along the way I came across the Muir Rock which I had seen on the topo map. But that suited me fine. It is visible from the trail, but some hikers have walked past it without noticing it. This was hands down one of the best hikes I've done in the High Sierras. It was great to get back and do another hike in the High Sierra. In between two crossings of the Sierra backbone at Muir Pass and Piute Pass, we'll visit beautiful and famous Evolution Valley. We had it easy in September, but Ive heard that earlier in the season hikers should be prepared for more difficult fordings. Get surefire solitude in McGee Canyon (south about .5 mile back). I finally had a chance to use the water shoes Id been carrying! Massive trail work project that ascends a sheer gully with switchbacks stacked on top of one another like wacky Jenga blocks. The best time ever, I mean. Oh ya, chill and take your time. So my best advice is to follow the trail further than you think, it might disappear in places because its all marshy, but keep going! The The next morning we discovered more good sites at the west end of the lake. The hike up to Evolution Lake is steep, but reasonably graded. This trail really had a lot of history behind it, and I wondered just how many horses and people had travelled through here in the past. A mother deer plus two babies. We headed over Piute Pass and into Humphreys Basin from the North Lake Trailhead. We remained on the JMT at the Goddard Canyon junction and continued up a series of switchbacks that led us to a stream crossing where we had to take off our hiking boots & put on our water shoes and continue towards Evolution Valley. Many hikers enjoy the week-long loop from North Lake, around through Evolution Valley, over Muir Pass, and eventually heading out over Bishop Pass to South Lake. The climb up to Piute Pass was uneventful, passing a series of lakes on the way to the day's high point. The trail even flattened out to make my way easier. Wheres there a low altitude pass that brings me out East of the Darwin Glacier? The Morning Star Mine comprises a group of 18 claims, situated in Secs. Lots of mosquitos in some areas. I woke up before dawn, as usual. Bonner explored this area in 1895 while scouting a hikers route along the crest of the Sierra (it would eventually become the John Muir Trail). Note: Bishop Pass hikers will encounter dozens deer skeletons on the steep slope below Bishop Pass. I found a spot right next to the creek in the shade of a small grove of trees. I didnt see anyone moving this time. We hiked through Evolution Meadow and decided to stay a few miles away near the McClure Meadow Ranger Station (closed due to Covid-19). $4,495: August 19-28. dirt and rock trail. GoPro video as I forded Evolution Creek, just north of Evolution Meadow. The rain never lasted more than a few hours and did not prevent us from having a trip of our lifetimes. Its about half way down Dusy basin. Evolution Lake was beautiful! I hiked onward, rather than head back down. No water issues at all--everything is flowing well. I kept hoping to find a side stream, but all of the obvious places were dry as a bone. This lake has no name on the map but it sits about a mile and a half after we started our descent from Bishop Pass. Hundreds of feet of granite on one side, and beautiful open meadow on the other. Laura Manina, my sister and fellow backpacker, shares her experiences and tips on backpacking a 57-mile loop to the Evolution Valley. Join Outside+ to get access to exclusive content, 1,000s of training plans, and more. Maybe I was oxygen-starved, but my companions said they were similarly affected. if you go over table top mountain you can make it a complete loop. Oh well. Because of the late snowfall, we were graced with the continued presence of wildflowers, complimented by the beginnings of golden fall, as we skip-trah-lahed our way alongside crashing gorge waterfalls and the calm tracing of the San Joaquin River. Great Trip! Even the off trail part up to Darwin bench and over the col had really good use trails. After the narrows, the valley widened and there were many hot and sunny meadows that I trudged through, at least according to the map. First campsite - Blaney Meadow (10 miles). There are possible campsites on Darwin Bench. They were having a seriously fun time on a hot Summers Day. Camp, or finish the last 2.7 miles to the trailhead. July 10 - 14. It was desert like in the high alpine on that side. Would recommend to anyone wanting to experience the High Sierras. Campsite 1: Upper Golden Trout Lake. Cottonwood to Onion Valley: Onion Valley to Bishop Pass: Evolution Loop: July 28-August 4. We did it over 4d/3n (south lake to le conte, le conte to sapphire lake, sapphire lake to the junction with Piute pass trail, and then out to north lake on the last day). We are slow hikers. I never made it that deep into the backcountry that summer. Didnt see a bear which a good thing. They were hustling right along. The North Lake-South Lake loop is there High Sierra at its very best! Pat was the captain of the ferry and Charlie ran the little store, nice couple. Parking: A large parking lot for overnight trips is situated close to the lake. 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